I went to the coast last weekend with some friends for a little getaway. We took an overnight bus which was supposed to take 12 hours, but there was an accident on the road, yes THE road because there is only one road going across the country so we sat still in the middle of the night for 3 hours until we finally started moving. We arrived in Mombasa and took public transport down to Diani Beach which is about 30 mins south of Mombasa. The place where we stayed was a like a small apartment/cottage about 30 yards from the beach. You couldn't exactly see the water but if you walked a few yards you could.
The beach was absolutely gorgeous. It's just hard to believe sometimes when you're there that you are in Kenya. Kenya... the place where 56% of the people live on less than one dollar per day, where corruption in the government spoils everything and where food security is a huge issue... Yet here we are on a postcard beach with no one around in the most beautiful place ever. Wierd...
We basically laid on the beach and swam in the light blue, clear warm water all day. Friday afternoon we took camel rides down the beach. It was pretty sweet. We ate at a restaurant a little ways down where you sit at a table with your feet in the sand and the ocean breeze blowing on you while eating good food (cheeseburgers and pizza!!) Then we got up and did it all over again the next day. The Kenyan coast is so cool because you can be in paradise and pay $4 a night. Slightly different than most other beach resort areas.
Otherwise, work is going really well. It was nice to get away but every time I come back I realize how much I have to do. It's never ending, but I love it.
Wednesday, June 3, 2009
Saturday, May 16, 2009
Transportation
So getting places here is actually quite easy. There are a few options:
1. Matatu - 14 passenger vans that run along specific routes and constantly pick up and drop people off. This is the cheapest way and costs 20 shillings (25 cents) no matter where you go. Usually there are way more than 14 people on them and often I am squished up against a huge woman or 3 school kids all sitting in one seat. Most of these vehicles are decorated with stickers of American pop stars of sports teams. There is always very loud music playing and lights flashing at night. Basically they are awesome and by far the most convenient effective means of transport.
2. Motorbike - These are motorcycles that are everywhere on every street corner and can easily feet 2 people plus the driver. I use these when I have to get somewhere quickly and they are still very cheap.
3. Tuk-Tuk - These are three wheeled, covered vehicles that are not super fast but can fit 4 or 5 people in them if needed. They're awesome when it's raining, but they're also pretty slow, very loud, and not a smooth ride. Great for coming home with groceries..
4. Boda-Boda - These are the most common... bicycle taxis. Guys ride bikes with thick padded plastic seats on the back. They are EVERYWHERE and there are a million of them. The only part that sucks is that they can't go up hills or inclines of ANY kind very well because they have only one gear. It's a slight blow to my ego where I'm going somewhere up a slight incline and the guy has to ask me to get off and walk because he can't carry me haha. Also, the guys that are carrying me are often about half my weight...
I can easily use all of these in one day. But I do use matatus and bodabodas every single day. I wish I could explain more how crazy and chaotic the roads are here. Cars, matatus, bikes, tuktuks, and pedestrains... all using horrible, pothole-filled, half paved roads. It's crazy!
1. Matatu - 14 passenger vans that run along specific routes and constantly pick up and drop people off. This is the cheapest way and costs 20 shillings (25 cents) no matter where you go. Usually there are way more than 14 people on them and often I am squished up against a huge woman or 3 school kids all sitting in one seat. Most of these vehicles are decorated with stickers of American pop stars of sports teams. There is always very loud music playing and lights flashing at night. Basically they are awesome and by far the most convenient effective means of transport.
2. Motorbike - These are motorcycles that are everywhere on every street corner and can easily feet 2 people plus the driver. I use these when I have to get somewhere quickly and they are still very cheap.
3. Tuk-Tuk - These are three wheeled, covered vehicles that are not super fast but can fit 4 or 5 people in them if needed. They're awesome when it's raining, but they're also pretty slow, very loud, and not a smooth ride. Great for coming home with groceries..
4. Boda-Boda - These are the most common... bicycle taxis. Guys ride bikes with thick padded plastic seats on the back. They are EVERYWHERE and there are a million of them. The only part that sucks is that they can't go up hills or inclines of ANY kind very well because they have only one gear. It's a slight blow to my ego where I'm going somewhere up a slight incline and the guy has to ask me to get off and walk because he can't carry me haha. Also, the guys that are carrying me are often about half my weight...
I can easily use all of these in one day. But I do use matatus and bodabodas every single day. I wish I could explain more how crazy and chaotic the roads are here. Cars, matatus, bikes, tuktuks, and pedestrains... all using horrible, pothole-filled, half paved roads. It's crazy!
Saturday, April 25, 2009
The rainy season
It has rained almost every day for the past 3 weeks. It happens at the same time every day, usually late afternoon around 4 or 5. It has been a nice break from the insanely hot dry season.
Otherwise this month has been going so well. My friend Daniel from UNC was just here to visit for two weeks. We spent most of our time here in Kisumu just hanging out. He got to see how I live and what my life is like here. We did take one trip to Eldoret, a town about 3 hours from here. We took public transport, a matatu, on the way there. The route we went was absolutely ridiculous. It took 4 hours and the road was the worst I have been on in all of Kenya. It rained and the roof of the vehicle was leaking. At one point there were 21 people in the 14 passenger vehicle. It was an interesting trip...
Eldoret town was great. It was much cooler than Kisumu but still sunny an beautiful. We stayed with Daniel's distant relatives who live in a beautiful compound with many Americans. The night we got there the dinner was MEXICAN FOOD... which just happened to be the food I miss the most being here. It was awesome.
Work has been going well. I am starting to see some of the things I have done being implemented. Kids are playing, there is a little less cheating and we are training many coaches, referees and youth leaders. Speaking of playing...
I played in two tournaments earlier this month. There is a girls team here which is pretty good and they train regularly, unlike most other teams. So I played in a game at the main venue in town, called Sportsground, and there were soooo many people there. Definitely the largest crowd I have ever play in front of. Every time I touched the ball, people would start cheering or yelling and I would get a lot of applause for ANY completed pass... I wish it was like that at home too haha.
My team won 9-0 but I'm pretty sure the team we played, some women from the rural area, had never played in a real game. Now people always tell me that they now believe me that I can play football. They ask me why I'm not playing professionally or on the US national team... They don't really understand the level of women's soccer at home.
So now I have officially been in Kenya for a total of one year... crazy. I am finally starting to really feel comfortable here. I understand how things work and I understand how the people work. Every time I have a visitor from home, I am reminded just how different things are here.
Next week, I am planning on going to the Coast for a much needed break. Can't wait to be laying on a beach!!
Otherwise this month has been going so well. My friend Daniel from UNC was just here to visit for two weeks. We spent most of our time here in Kisumu just hanging out. He got to see how I live and what my life is like here. We did take one trip to Eldoret, a town about 3 hours from here. We took public transport, a matatu, on the way there. The route we went was absolutely ridiculous. It took 4 hours and the road was the worst I have been on in all of Kenya. It rained and the roof of the vehicle was leaking. At one point there were 21 people in the 14 passenger vehicle. It was an interesting trip...
Eldoret town was great. It was much cooler than Kisumu but still sunny an beautiful. We stayed with Daniel's distant relatives who live in a beautiful compound with many Americans. The night we got there the dinner was MEXICAN FOOD... which just happened to be the food I miss the most being here. It was awesome.
Work has been going well. I am starting to see some of the things I have done being implemented. Kids are playing, there is a little less cheating and we are training many coaches, referees and youth leaders. Speaking of playing...
I played in two tournaments earlier this month. There is a girls team here which is pretty good and they train regularly, unlike most other teams. So I played in a game at the main venue in town, called Sportsground, and there were soooo many people there. Definitely the largest crowd I have ever play in front of. Every time I touched the ball, people would start cheering or yelling and I would get a lot of applause for ANY completed pass... I wish it was like that at home too haha.
My team won 9-0 but I'm pretty sure the team we played, some women from the rural area, had never played in a real game. Now people always tell me that they now believe me that I can play football. They ask me why I'm not playing professionally or on the US national team... They don't really understand the level of women's soccer at home.
So now I have officially been in Kenya for a total of one year... crazy. I am finally starting to really feel comfortable here. I understand how things work and I understand how the people work. Every time I have a visitor from home, I am reminded just how different things are here.
Next week, I am planning on going to the Coast for a much needed break. Can't wait to be laying on a beach!!
Tuesday, March 31, 2009
March Madness
so I have officially been here 6 months... how did that happen?
Work is going great. I am becoming much more adjusted to the Kenyan ways of doing things. We have about 150 teams participating in our leagues, so we are essentially organizing competitions for 3000 kids!
This past weekend I went to Nairobi for the day on Saturday (took the night bus there on Friday and the night bus back on Saturday). I went just to watch the Harambee Stars play, which is the name of the national soccer team here. They played Tunisia in a World Cup qualifying match, but we lost 2-1... bummer! It was an awesome experience though. Live events always are.
On Sunday, I went to a party with about 40 other Americans. It was on a barge that was anchored just in a bay here on Lake Victoria. We hung out and had drinks and a buffet dinner. I ate tuna, brie cheese, shrimp and turkey. All things I have NEVER eaten in Kenya before then. It was amazing! Then in the evening, people started jumping off to go for a swim so of course I also had to do it. I was assured there were no hippos in the area even though we were in a place called Kiboko Bay, which means Hippo Bay in Swahili. So I did it and it was my first official swim in Lake Victoria.
Today I spent the day at a local school where school games were held between four schools from around the area which have all students who are special needs. Here they are called "intellectually disabled." The kids, of all ages, competed in track and field events as well as a soccer game. Little did I know, I was the guest of honor so they talked about me for about 10 minutes and then I had to give a speech to the 150+ people who were there. Good thing people don't understand my English very well...
So overall things are great and going very well. I could essentially start a youth football organization ANYWHERE in the world right now with the experience I have had here in the last 6 months. People around here are starting to know my name and not be afraid to talk to me (they used to call me "mzungu" or "white person"). I've been invited to a lot of events as a special guest of honor which is flattering but also making my schedule quite crazy.
Also, March madness has not quite been the same here without other college basketball fans. I have tried to explain the brackets and the tournament to people and no one gets it. Oh well.... as long as Carolina is in the Final Four it's allllll good with me!
GO HEELS!
Work is going great. I am becoming much more adjusted to the Kenyan ways of doing things. We have about 150 teams participating in our leagues, so we are essentially organizing competitions for 3000 kids!
This past weekend I went to Nairobi for the day on Saturday (took the night bus there on Friday and the night bus back on Saturday). I went just to watch the Harambee Stars play, which is the name of the national soccer team here. They played Tunisia in a World Cup qualifying match, but we lost 2-1... bummer! It was an awesome experience though. Live events always are.
On Sunday, I went to a party with about 40 other Americans. It was on a barge that was anchored just in a bay here on Lake Victoria. We hung out and had drinks and a buffet dinner. I ate tuna, brie cheese, shrimp and turkey. All things I have NEVER eaten in Kenya before then. It was amazing! Then in the evening, people started jumping off to go for a swim so of course I also had to do it. I was assured there were no hippos in the area even though we were in a place called Kiboko Bay, which means Hippo Bay in Swahili. So I did it and it was my first official swim in Lake Victoria.
Today I spent the day at a local school where school games were held between four schools from around the area which have all students who are special needs. Here they are called "intellectually disabled." The kids, of all ages, competed in track and field events as well as a soccer game. Little did I know, I was the guest of honor so they talked about me for about 10 minutes and then I had to give a speech to the 150+ people who were there. Good thing people don't understand my English very well...
So overall things are great and going very well. I could essentially start a youth football organization ANYWHERE in the world right now with the experience I have had here in the last 6 months. People around here are starting to know my name and not be afraid to talk to me (they used to call me "mzungu" or "white person"). I've been invited to a lot of events as a special guest of honor which is flattering but also making my schedule quite crazy.
Also, March madness has not quite been the same here without other college basketball fans. I have tried to explain the brackets and the tournament to people and no one gets it. Oh well.... as long as Carolina is in the Final Four it's allllll good with me!
GO HEELS!
Thursday, March 12, 2009
Thinking outloud
The last few weeks have been very interesting and much different than the rest of my Kenyan experiences. Before now, I was absolutely in love with Kenya and everything here. Recently, I have experienced the other side.
Being in the developing world is wearing. Poverty is a powerful force. Kenyans are wonderful people and for the most part they are friendly, caring, welcoming and enjoyable, but there is this culture of materialism and monetary values. Everything is about money and people without money can be driven to do some pretty crazy things. I have a hard time subscribing to that idea because I'm used to a culture of generosity without expected reciprocation. Many people here are reliant on others (other people or organizations) for everything. They think "Why should I volunteer to support my community when I can be doing something else to make money?" This mentality is tough to break, especially in my arena of soccer participation. The youth leagues I grew up in with volunteer coaches, parents, referees and organizers is non-existent here. People expect everything to be given to them with no responsibility for their own contributions.
These philosophies are proving to be quite stressful for me. I'm really starting to be engulfed in this culture, including the good and the bad. I'm just reminded every day that no matter how long I am here, I will never be Kenyan. I will never be OK with lying or cheating or taking advantage of others.
Otherwise things are well. It's warm and sunny every day, I am meeting so many wonderful people, I am watching so many kids play soccer and I'm learning to fend for myself. I used to think I was finally part of the "real world" but I now do not consider this the "real world." I am totally wrapped up in a crazy, confused and contradictory world.... and I love it.
I'm now heading to the shop right below where I live. They stock everything from milk and bread to nail polish, soap, toothpaste and soda. Essentially, everything I need. Even though it's dark already, it's totally safe for me to go outside because my building has armed guards.... armed with a bow and arrow (no joke).
Being in the developing world is wearing. Poverty is a powerful force. Kenyans are wonderful people and for the most part they are friendly, caring, welcoming and enjoyable, but there is this culture of materialism and monetary values. Everything is about money and people without money can be driven to do some pretty crazy things. I have a hard time subscribing to that idea because I'm used to a culture of generosity without expected reciprocation. Many people here are reliant on others (other people or organizations) for everything. They think "Why should I volunteer to support my community when I can be doing something else to make money?" This mentality is tough to break, especially in my arena of soccer participation. The youth leagues I grew up in with volunteer coaches, parents, referees and organizers is non-existent here. People expect everything to be given to them with no responsibility for their own contributions.
These philosophies are proving to be quite stressful for me. I'm really starting to be engulfed in this culture, including the good and the bad. I'm just reminded every day that no matter how long I am here, I will never be Kenyan. I will never be OK with lying or cheating or taking advantage of others.
Otherwise things are well. It's warm and sunny every day, I am meeting so many wonderful people, I am watching so many kids play soccer and I'm learning to fend for myself. I used to think I was finally part of the "real world" but I now do not consider this the "real world." I am totally wrapped up in a crazy, confused and contradictory world.... and I love it.
I'm now heading to the shop right below where I live. They stock everything from milk and bread to nail polish, soap, toothpaste and soda. Essentially, everything I need. Even though it's dark already, it's totally safe for me to go outside because my building has armed guards.... armed with a bow and arrow (no joke).
Tuesday, March 3, 2009
March
I have been in Kenya for a little more than 5 months... how did that happen?!? Work is going well. Still 7 days a week about 9 or 10 hours a day. We are in the middle of kicking off all the leagues, organizing coaches and referees trainings and securing corporate sponsorship. Basically, tons of stuff to do and not enough time.
The HOVIC football team that I am supporting is doing so well. They are training almost every day and as of now, I think none of them are using glue which is SO EXCITING! HOVIC just opened a night shelter for some of the street boys so some of the players will be able to stay there overnight, instead of on the streets.
It's hot here every day. Usually around 90. The rains will start in April so more dust for the next month. I had Chinese food for lunch today, I'm using internet in my house and watching college basketball on ESPN. For all of you who thought African all lived in huts in the middle of nowhere... that is not so true haha.
P.S. I finally posted a few pictures online. Enjoy!
http://community.webshots.com/user/kelmo17
The HOVIC football team that I am supporting is doing so well. They are training almost every day and as of now, I think none of them are using glue which is SO EXCITING! HOVIC just opened a night shelter for some of the street boys so some of the players will be able to stay there overnight, instead of on the streets.
It's hot here every day. Usually around 90. The rains will start in April so more dust for the next month. I had Chinese food for lunch today, I'm using internet in my house and watching college basketball on ESPN. For all of you who thought African all lived in huts in the middle of nowhere... that is not so true haha.
P.S. I finally posted a few pictures online. Enjoy!
http://community.webshots.com/user/kelmo17
Wednesday, February 11, 2009
the real world?
So the last few weeks have been totally consumed by work. I love what I'm doing, but it is a 24 hour a day, 7 days a week job. The way things are done here is so much slower and less productive than I'm used to. We had a meeting every day last week with each zone we operate in. Each meeting was supposed to start at 2pm. NOT ONE meeting started before 3:30... not one! Time is so not a factor here and it's extremely frustrating.
I just got back this morning from a workshop in Nairobi. It was for a select group of sports and development organizations that have been identified by the Dutch government to participate in creating a program to allocate funds the Dutch have available. It was a great two days and I met other really interesting people. There are so many great organizations here and it definitely inspired me to try and do even more.
The soccer team I am sponsoring played in an open tournament last weekend. They were definitely the youngest team, being all under the age of 16 but they played well and really held their own. People around town are starting to talk about them and complement their efforts and motivation... so nice to see! It's crazy how these kids play in tournaments against all these other teams and at the end of the day, the other players will go home to their houses/families/meals/bed, while my team all lives on the streets... pretty unbelievable huh?
I have met some more Americans who are living here in Kisumu as part of a program similar to the one I did in 2007. It's so nice to have more American friends and be able to speak normally and talk about stuff from home. I miss that so much.
Let's see if I can recount some recent awkward moments...
1. A man in the matatu this morning introduced himself to me and shook my hand but did that wierd thing where he tickled my palm with his middle finger while he was shaking my hand...
2. As I was riding in a matatu last week, I was sitting next to the driver in the front seat and he's muttering to himself "where are the keys?" We were driving around town with no keys in the ignition (?!?!) but finally we stopped and he found the keys under the seat.
3. I went to the movies last week with some friends because they have a special on Tuesday nights where you get a hot dog, soda, popcorn and ticket for 4 dollars. the power went off three times during the movie and we were the only ones there
So many other funny/crazy things happen and I will have to start writing them down so I can share.
There has been some big new the last few weeks in Kenya with the fire at a downtown supermarket in Nairobi. I man I know was killed in that. Also the tanker which overturned and then exploded killing like 120 people last week. Lots of sad new here...
Yet, things with me are good. Keep the updates coming. I will be waking up in the middle of the night to watch the Carolina Duke game tonight which will HOPEFULLY be aired. GO HEELS!
I just got back this morning from a workshop in Nairobi. It was for a select group of sports and development organizations that have been identified by the Dutch government to participate in creating a program to allocate funds the Dutch have available. It was a great two days and I met other really interesting people. There are so many great organizations here and it definitely inspired me to try and do even more.
The soccer team I am sponsoring played in an open tournament last weekend. They were definitely the youngest team, being all under the age of 16 but they played well and really held their own. People around town are starting to talk about them and complement their efforts and motivation... so nice to see! It's crazy how these kids play in tournaments against all these other teams and at the end of the day, the other players will go home to their houses/families/meals/bed, while my team all lives on the streets... pretty unbelievable huh?
I have met some more Americans who are living here in Kisumu as part of a program similar to the one I did in 2007. It's so nice to have more American friends and be able to speak normally and talk about stuff from home. I miss that so much.
Let's see if I can recount some recent awkward moments...
1. A man in the matatu this morning introduced himself to me and shook my hand but did that wierd thing where he tickled my palm with his middle finger while he was shaking my hand...
2. As I was riding in a matatu last week, I was sitting next to the driver in the front seat and he's muttering to himself "where are the keys?" We were driving around town with no keys in the ignition (?!?!) but finally we stopped and he found the keys under the seat.
3. I went to the movies last week with some friends because they have a special on Tuesday nights where you get a hot dog, soda, popcorn and ticket for 4 dollars. the power went off three times during the movie and we were the only ones there
So many other funny/crazy things happen and I will have to start writing them down so I can share.
There has been some big new the last few weeks in Kenya with the fire at a downtown supermarket in Nairobi. I man I know was killed in that. Also the tanker which overturned and then exploded killing like 120 people last week. Lots of sad new here...
Yet, things with me are good. Keep the updates coming. I will be waking up in the middle of the night to watch the Carolina Duke game tonight which will HOPEFULLY be aired. GO HEELS!
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